8 min read
Colour matching is where good bodyshops separate themselves from cheap ones. Everything else about a repair can be sound and the job still fails the only test that matters: can you see where the repair is?
The reason it is difficult is that your car's paint is no longer the colour it left the factory as, and the paint code cannot tell you what it is now.
Paint codes: a starting point, not an answer
Every vehicle carries a paint code, usually on a sticker in the door shut, under the bonnet, in the boot or on the B-pillar. It identifies the manufacturer's formula for that colour.
But one code can cover several factory variants. Manufacturers produce the same colour at different plants, in different batches and with different pigment suppliers, so a single code may have five or more official variants — sometimes far more on popular silvers, greys and reds. The code narrows it down; it does not settle it.
Then the car changes colour
This is why mixing straight to the code and spraying it on is a mistake. The new paint would match the car as it was when it was built, not as it is today.
- UV exposure fades pigment, most visibly on reds, and worst on horizontal surfaces — roof, bonnet and boot
- Bonnets and roofs are typically a shade lighter than the doors on any car more than a few years old
- Previous repairs may already have introduced an off-shade panel
- Polishing over the years thins the lacquer, which subtly changes how the colour reads
- Solvent-based older finishes and modern waterborne paints behave differently as they age
How we actually match it
- Identify the paint code, then narrow the variant using the manufacturer's variant data and a colour chip deck compared against the car in daylight
- Mix a batch and spray out a test card, then tint and adjust until it reads correctly wet and dry
- Check the card against the car in more than one light — daylight, shade and workshop light, because metallics in particular shift under different sources
- Match the spray pattern too: on metallics and pearls, gun pressure, distance and coat thickness change how the flake lies, and therefore the apparent colour
- Only then does anything go on the vehicle
Metallics, pearls and three-stage finishes
Solid colours are the simplest to match. Metallics contain aluminium flake, and the colour you see depends on how that flake orientates as the paint lays down — so application technique is part of the match, not just the mix.
Pearl and three-stage finishes add a translucent mid-coat over the base, and the final appearance depends on how many coats of that mid-coat are applied. Matching one requires spraying out cards at different mid-coat counts and choosing the one that reads right. White pearls are among the hardest colours in the trade to match convincingly.
Blending: the part that makes it invisible
Even a near-perfect mix will show as an edge if the new paint stops at a panel gap, because the eye is very good at detecting a hard line between two shades.
The answer is blending. The colour is faded out into the adjacent panel, and the clear coat is then carried across the whole of both panels. Light travels across the car without ever crossing a hard boundary, so there is nothing for the eye to catch.
That is why a quote for a single scratched wing may include work on the door and bonnet. It is not padding — it is the difference between a repair you cannot find and a panel that looks slightly off in the sun.
Judging a colour match yourself
- Look at the car in daylight, not under workshop lights or in a shaded unit
- Stand back and view the panel from several angles, not just square on
- Check the repair area against both neighbouring panels
- Look along the panel gap for a hard change in shade, which suggests no blending
- On metallics, look for a difference in sparkle or 'mottling' rather than just hue
Talk to us about your colour
With over 20 years matching paint on everything from fleet vans to premium metallics, we would rather spend an extra half hour on test cards than hand back a car with a panel you can pick out. Send us your paint code and photographs on WhatsApp and we will tell you what your colour involves.
Frequently asked questions
- Where do I find my car's paint code?
- Usually on a sticker or plate in the driver's door shut, under the bonnet, in the boot or spare wheel well, or on the B-pillar. It is often labelled 'Paint', 'Colour' or 'C/TR'. If you cannot find it, send us the registration and we can usually identify it.
- Why doesn't the paint code match my car exactly?
- Because one code can cover several factory variants, and because your paint has aged. UV fade, panel position, previous repairs and lacquer thinning all shift the colour away from the original formula, so the mix has to be adjusted to the car as it is now.
- Why does the bodyshop need to paint the panel next to the damage?
- That is blending. Fading the new colour into the adjacent panel and lacquering across both removes any hard line at the panel gap, which is what makes a repair invisible. Stopping at the gap is what causes a mismatched panel.
- Which colours are hardest to match?
- Pearl whites and three-stage finishes are the most difficult, followed by silvers and light metallics where flake orientation shows any inconsistency. Faded reds are also awkward because the current colour is often well away from the factory formula.
Need this doing properly?
See how we handle this work, or send photos for a free, no-obligation estimate.
Paintwork & resprays →
