What it costs · 6 min read
In short
A scrape on a bumper can usually be flatted and refinished locally, so the price mostly depends on how wide the scrape is. A scrape on a metal panel is priced by how deep the worst part goes: polishing if it stays in the lacquer, fresh colour if it reaches the paint, and filling and priming as well once primer or metal shows.
For drivers who have rubbed a wall, pillar or another car and have a patch of scraped paint rather than a single scratch.
Scrape or scratch: why the difference matters
A scratch is a line. A scrape is an area, usually made when the car slides along something rather than being struck by a point. Scrapes are common on bumper corners, the lower edges of doors and the rear quarter after a tight turn in a car park, and they often carry transferred paint or rubber from whatever the car touched.
Because a scrape covers more surface, the repair area is wider even when the damage is shallow. The good news is that a lot of scrapes are mostly transferred material and surface rubbing, which cleans back further than people expect.
What the repair involves
- 01Remove transferred paint and rubber so the real damage can be seen.
- 02Check the deepest point of the scrape, since that sets the method for the whole area.
- 03Flat and feather the edges so there is no visible step in the paint.
- 04Prime any exposed plastic or metal, then apply colour and lacquer, blended into the surrounding paint.
- 05Polish the blend area so it matches the original finish.
What sets the price of a scrape
| Where and how deep | What sets the price |
|---|---|
| Bumper scuff or scrape | Width of the scrape |
| Metal panel, lacquer only | Polish only, no paint |
| Metal panel, into the colour | Fresh colour needed |
| Metal panel, through to primer | Filling and priming added |
| Metal panel, down to bare metal | Metal treated and sealed first |
Things that push a scrape price up
- The scrape crosses from one panel to the next, such as a door onto the rear wing.
- The panel has a crease, swage line or edge that has to be kept crisp.
- The colour is metallic, pearl or a three stage finish.
- There is a dent under the scrape, which has to be dealt with before paint.
- Trims, handles or sensors sit in the area and need removing for a clean finish.
Leaving a scrape
A scrape that has only rubbed the lacquer is cosmetic. One that has worn through to bare steel will eventually let moisture in, and corrosion can then spread under the good paint around it, turning a local repair into a bigger one. Plastic bumpers do not rust, but raw plastic left exposed picks up dirt and becomes harder to refinish neatly.
Where to go next
Caught a pillar or a wall
Photograph the scraped area and send it over. We will tell you how deep it goes and give you a free estimate.
Questions people ask us
- Can a car scrape be polished out?
- Sometimes. If most of the mark is transferred paint or rubber and the damage below stays in the lacquer, cleaning and polishing can remove it. If colour has been rubbed away, a local refinish is needed.
- Is a scrape cheaper to fix than a scratch?
- Not necessarily. A scrape is often shallower but covers more area, so the preparation and blending take longer. The deepest point of the damage sets the price band.
- Do you repair scrapes on both bumpers and metal panels?
- Yes. Bumper repairs, panel repairs and paintwork are all part of the work we carry out at our Harlington workshop.
- How do I get a price for my scrape?
- Send photos of the whole area and a close up with your make, model and location by WhatsApp or through our quote form for a free estimate.
Scrape repair costs in short
- A scrape is a rubbed area, not a single line.
- Bumper scrapes are priced mainly on their width and depth.
- On metal panels the deepest point sets the band.
- Bare metal left open can corrode, so seal it sooner.
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